Loom for weaving embroidered goods.



No. 778,880. PATENTED JAN. 3, 1905.

JEAN -BAPTISTE MQNNET, P. BEIEB. & L. MAGNIN. LOOM FOR WEAVI NG EMBROIDERED GOODS.

APPLICATION FILED JAN.11, 1904.

3 SHEETSSHEET 1,

Vibzesses f f r No. 778,880. PATENTED JAN. 3, 1905. JEAN-BAPTISTE MONNET, P. BEIER 6: L. MAGNIN.

LOOM FOR WEAVING EMBROIDERED GOODS.

APPLICATION FILED JAN.11, 1904.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

FIG- 2 lm ven Ions M I W No. 778,880. I PATENTED JAN. 3, 1905. JEAN-BAPTISTE MONNET, P. BEIER & L. MAGNIN.

LOOM FOR WEAVING EMBROIDERED GOODS.

APPLICATION FILED JAN. 11. 1904.

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FIG-6 UNITED STATES Patented January 3, 1905.

PATENT OFFICE.

JEAN-BAPTISTE MONNET, OF BOURGOIN, ANDPAUL BEIER AND LOUIS MAGNIN, OF LYONS, FRANCE.

LOOM FOR WEAVlNG EMBROIDERED GOODS- SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No". 778,880, dated January 3, 1905.

Application filed January 11, 1904. Serial No. 188,604.

To rtZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, J EAN-BArTIsTE Mon- NET, a citizen of the French Republic, residing at Bourgoin, and PAUL BEIER, a subject of the German Emperor, and LOUIS MAGNIN, a citizen of the French Republic, residing at Lyons, France, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Looms for Weaving Embroidered Goods, of which the following is a specification.

'1 his invention relates to apparatus for weaving embroidered goods with an embroiderer or needle-bar which permits the loom to work at a great speed either when said embroiderer is in action or at rest. The embroiderer is similar to those usually used, the shuttles sliding on plungers and being held against the latter by springs which keep them in place and prevent them from getting out of order while in movement. The'movements of the shuttles at the moment of the passage of the embroiderer into the warp are produced in the same manner as with hand-loom weaving by means of a toothed bar or rack with pivoted teeth which accompany the shuttles up to the end of their travel and immediately passback for a fraction of this movement to free the openings through which the raised threads have passed between the plungers. These two movements do not form part of this invention, but only the apparatus employed for producing them in such a manner that they are completely finished at the same time as the embroiderer rises again and the warpthreads fall.

Figure 1 of the annexed drawings is an elevation of one side of the loom provided with this improved apparatus, the other side not being specially characterized. Fig. 2 is a side view of Fig. 1, the arms of the principal toothed wheel being broken away to more clearly show the controlling-gearsituated in the center of the loom. Fig. 8 is a detail view, on a larger scale, ofthe device for operating the lever 5, shown in its position of rest. Fig. at is a similar view showing the parts when they have been moved into their operative positions by the jacquard-gear. Fig. 5 is a side view of the said device in partial section on the line 5 5. Fig. 6 is a detail view of the device for operating the plates for the lateral displacement of the embroiderer. Figs. 7 and S-are detail views of the levers for operating the said plates.

The embroiderer 1 is fixed on the batten or lathe by means of supports 2, passing through lugs at each side of theloom. Each of these supports ends in a widened part, in which is fixed a gudgeon 3, engaging a horizontal groove 4 in the embroiderer-support 68 to permit the lateral displacement of the latter. In this manner the embroiderer does not in any way impede the movement of the loom, and it is high enough not to conceal the reed or to permit an easy inspection of the fabric.

The loom works similarly to an ordinary loom, with passage of the weft-shuttle at every stroke or with one stroke of the weft-shuttle to one of the embroiderer, or with several strokes of the weft-shuttle to one of the'embroiderer. To this effect when the shuttle is not Working the picks are kept at rest by means hereinafter described.

The embroiderer is operated in the following manner: At the back and in the center of V the loom two supports are fixed, on which are pivoted two levers 5 and 6. Each of said levers is provided with a bell-crank lever 7, the upper arm of which carries a roller 8, and to thelower arm is fixed a wire 9, connected to the jacquard mechanism (not shown) after having passedthrough a groove in the pulley 8 on the shaft of the roller 8. Above these bellcranks and fixed to the usual driving-shaft 10 two double-nosed cams 11 are arranged in such a manner as to operate alternately one of the levers 5 or 6. The said cams do not directly operate the levers, but only the rollers 8 when the latter are actuated by the jacquard mechanism. In the position illustrated in Figs. 2 and 3 the cams are out of action; but when the jacquard mechanism pulls the lever 7, Fig. 4, the levers 5 6 are depressed under the action of the cams and move the inverted-T-shaped cross-bar 12 at the front part of the loom. This part 12 is rocked toward the left'or right hand side, according to whether it is operated by one or the other of the levers 5 6, and communicates its rocking movement to the embroiderer in order to produce the passage of the cops from one plunger to the other by means of the adjustable rods 13, 14, and and the adjustable bellcrank levers 16 and 17. At the ends of the levers 5 6 two screws 18 19 are provided for regulating the movement of the cops. On the batten-shaft 20 are fixed two guides 21 and 22,

through which the levers 5 6 pass, their upward or backward movement being produced by two springs 23 and 24 and limited by two set-screws. A cross-bar 25 holds the guides 21 22 apart, and to this bar are connected the aforesaid springs 23 and 24. To the said slides there are pivoted two small abutmentlevers 26 and 27, which arenormally held in a horizontal position by the springs 28 and 29, fixed to the cross-bar 25, and these levers 26 and 27 are operated at the proper time by means of the chains 30 and 31, connected to the levers 5 and 6. When at rest, the levers 26 and 27 inclose between them the lockingrod 32, fixed to the slotted portion of the crossbar 12, the said levers thus preventing interference with the toothed bar of the embroiderer during the ground-strokes. During the embroiderer-strokes the chains 30 and 31 move the levers 26 27 in order to release the rod 32, so that the rocking bar 12"ean yield to the pressure of the lever 5 or 6 and transmit its movement to the embroiderer. At this moment the embroiderer is completely passed into the open warp and the nose of one of the cams 11 is on the point of leaving the roller 8, which it does as soon as the passage of the cops has taken place. drawn back by its spring 23 or 24 and the bar 12 returns to the position of rest, being pushed by one of the springs 32 or 33, fixed to the angularly-bent brackets 34 or 35, mounted on the batten-shaft 30. At 'this moment the toothed bar of the embroiderer has made its backward movement to free the openings between the plungers. The embroiderer is then lifted by means hereinafter described and is held by the levers 26 and 27 until the next stroke takes place, the said stroke being similar to that described, butin the opposite direction. The downward movement of the embroiderer is produced by the cams 36, mounted on a shaft 36, arranged above it with bearings in the sides of the loom. These cams operate the levers 37, from the ends-of which the embroiderer is suspended by means of adjustable wires 38. The shaft carrying the cams 36 is driven by means of a chain 39, passing round two sprocket-wheels 40 and 41 of equal diameter, one of which is keyed to the driving-shaft 42 of the loom. Another shaft, 43, carries at each end abell-crank 44,the lower arm of which is provided with a notch into which a pin 45, fixed to the lever 37, is adapted to engage. The lever 44 is operated by the jacquard mechanism by means of a lever 46, fixed to the center of the shaft 43. When at rest, the

The lever 5 or 6 is then embroiderer. is held .in its upper position by the notches of the levers 44, which serve as stops for the levers 37. At the moment when the embroiderer is to descend the lever 46 is pulled by the jacquard mechanism so as to disengage the notch from the pin and the levers 37 are operated by the cams 36. When the stroke is finished, the locking of-the levers 37 is effected automatically. The upper arm 44 of each lever 44 carries a wire 47 connected with a pawl 48, adapted to lock the pickersticks 49 against movement during the embroidering-strokes. WVhen said lever is pulled by the wire 47, the picker-stick-operating lever 50 can strike the rear part 51 of the picker-stick, but only operates the nose 52, and the picker-stick remains stationary. I

The embroiderer is given transverse movements according to the requirements of the pattern by means of the following arrangement: To the driving-shaft 42, at the lefthand side, is fixed a cam 53,ad apted to operate a large bell-crank lever 54, pivoted at 55. One end of this lever is provided with a roller 56, and the other end transmits the movement imparted by the cam 53 to one or several vertical levers 57 58, according to the desired number of displacements. These levers 57 58 move in suitable guides fixed partly to the batten-shaft and partly to the batten-frame. Each of these levers is provided at one end with a pawl 59 60, having a spring 61, and at the other end with an adjustable plate 62 63, cut away diagonally at angles varying according to the extent of the displacement to be obtained. These plates form a hook for engaging the embroiderer, and their cut-away parts 64 bear against a pin 65, carried by a vertical lever 66,pi-voted at 67. When the embroidering requires variable displacement of the embroiderer,it is necessary to impart correspondingdisplacements to the square 68. This is effected by means of the two or more levers 57 58, having at their upper ends the plates 62 63, cut away at 64 64' according to different angles. When these plates move upward, they push the pin 65 and the square 68 through distances determined by the inclination of the cut-away parts 64 64, which form inclined planes. The pin 65 fixes the embroiderer by passing into the vertical groove of the embroiderer-support 68. A locking-catch 69, pivoted to the bracket 70, is provided for preventing lateral displacement of the embroiderer during the work.

On a shaft 71, carried by abracket72, are mounted small levers 73 74, operated by the jacquard mechanism by means of wires 75, and these levers transmit their movement, by means of adjustable rods 7 6 77, to the pawls 59 60 and the catch 69. The displacement is therefore obtained at the desired moment in the following manner: When the end of the lever 54 has arrived at the end of its travel, the jacquard mechanism operates one of the small levers 73 or 74, so that therespective pawl 59, for instance, which was behind its lever, is released and is pulled by its spring 61 and caused to project sufiiciently to be engaged during the passage of the lever 54L,'which moves it away vertically. When the lever 57, moved by the lever 54 by means of the pawl 59,has arrived at its highest point,itis held in that position by a catch 78, operated by the jacquard mechanism, which .catch on being operated again at the desired. moment allows the lever 57 to fall back in order to obtain a new displacement. the raised position, the locking device 78 retains it in that position until the jacquard has disengaged the said device. If a second lever 58 is to be operated,it will not be operated until the first lever 57 has returned to its lower position and not while the said lever 57 is still in its raised position.

The action of this compound apparatus can be summed up in three automatic phases all controlled by the jacquard mechanismviz., first, a reciprocating movement of the embroiderer inthe open shed; secondly, adownward. movement combined with the former, and,thirdly. a lateral displacement to a certain extent allowing of changing the color effects in the same pattern. These three movements are combined. with those of the ordinary batten in such a manner that the displacements of the shuttle and the cops of the embroiderer do not interfere with each other in any way.

As these displacements are effected automatically, any desired speed can be given to the loom without fear of accident.

. We claim 1. The combination in a loom and jacquard mechanism in conjunction therewith, of an embroiderer connected to the batten of the loom, and means for reciprocating said embroiderer in the shed comprising levers, double-nosed cams for actuating said levers alternately, a rocking bar operated by said levers,and a system of rods and levers connecting said rocking bar and embroiderer, substantially as described.

2. The combination in aloom and jacquard mechanism in conjunction therewith,of an embroiderer connected to the batten of the loom, means for reciprocating said embroiderer in the shed comprising levers, double-nosed cams for actuating said levers alternately, a rocking bar operated by said levers, and asystem of rods and levers connecting said rocking bar and embroiderer, and means for locking said embroiderer reciprocating mechanism between the ,strokes, substantially as described.

3. The combination in a loom and jacquard mechanism in conjunction therewith, of an embroiderer connected to the batten of the loom, means for reciprocating said embroiderer in the shed comprising levers, double nosed cams for actuating said levers alternately, a

When one lever 57 is in rocking bar operated by said levers. and a v broiderer in its raised position and means for allowing it to descend, comprising levers and catches controlled by the jacquard mechanism, and cams driven from the loom-shaft and adapted to operate said cams, substantially asdescribed.

4. The combination in a loom and jacquard mechanism in conjunction therewith, of an embroiderer connected to the batten of the loom, means for reciprocating said embroiderer in the shed comprising levers, double-nosed cams for actuating said levers alternately, a rocking bar operated by said levers, and a system of rods and levers connecting said rocking bar and embroiderer, means for locking the embroiderer in its raised position and means for allowing it to descend, comprising levers and catches controlled by the jacquard mechanism, and cams driven from the loom-shaft and adapted-to operate said cams, and means for locking the picker-sticks when the embroiderer passes into the warp substantially as described. 7

5. The combination in a loom and jacquard mechanism in conjunction therewith, of an embroiderer connected to the batten of the loom, means for reciprocating saidembroiderer in the shed, means for locking said embroidererreciprocating mechanism between the strokes, means for locking the embroidererin its raised position and means for allowingv it to descend, means for locking the picker-sticks when the embroiderer passesinto the warp, means for laterally displacing the embroiderer, means controlled by the jacquard mechanism for obtaining such lateral displacement at the desired moment and means for locking the embroiderer in its laterally-displaced position.

6. The combination in a loom and jacquard mechanism in conjunction therewith, of an embroiderer connected to the batten of the loom, means for reciprocating said embroiderer in the shed, comprising levers, double nosed cams for actuating said levers alternately, a rocking bar operated by said levers, and a system of rods and levers connecting saidrocking bar and embroiderer, means for locking said embroiderer-reciprocating mechanism between the strokes, means for locking the embroiderer in its raised position and means for allowing it to descend, means for locking the picker-sticks when the embroiderer passes into the warp, means for laterally displacing the embroiderer, means controlled by the jacquard mechanism for obtaining such lateral displacement at the desired moment and means for locking the embroiderer in its laterallybroiderer connected to the batten of the loom, means for reciprocating said embroiderer,

comprising levers, double-nosed cams for actuating said levers alternately, a rocking bar operated by said levers, and a system of rods and levers connectin said rocking bar and embroiderer, means for locking said embroiderer reciprocating mechanism between the strokes, means for locking the embroiderer in its raised position and means for allowing it to descend comprising levers and catches controlled by the jacquard mechanism and cams driven from the loom-shaft and adapted to operate said levers, means for locking the pickersticks when the embroiderer passes into the warp, means for laterally displacing the embroiderer, means controlled by the jacquard mechanism for obtaining such lateral displacement at the desired moment, and means for locking the embroiderer in its laterally-displaced position.

8. The combination in a loom and jacquard mechanism in conjunction therewith, of an embroiderer connected to the batten of the loom, means for reciprocating said embroiderer in the shed, comprising levers, double-nosed cams for actuating said levers alternately, a rocking bar operated by said levers, and a system of rods and levers connecting said rocking bar and embroiderer, means for locking said embroiderer-reciprocating mechanism between the strokes, means for locking the embroiderer in its raised position and means for allowing it to descend comprising levers and catches controlled by the jacquard mechanism and cams driven from the loom-shaft and adapted to operate said levers, means for locking the picker-sticks having a nose when the embroiderer passes into the warp comprising a pawl controlled by the jacquard mechanism and adapted to engage a noseon said pickersticks, means for laterally displacing the embroiderer, means controlled by the jacquard mechanism for obtaining such lateral displacement at the desired moment and means for locking the embroiderer in its laterally-displaced position.

9. The combination in a loom and jacquard mechanism in conjunction therewith,- of an embroiderer connected to the batten of the loom, means for reciprocating said embroiderer in the shed, comprising levers, double-nosed cams for actuating said levers alternately, a rocking bar operated by said levers, and a system of rods and levers connecting said rocking bar and embroiderer, means for locking said embroiderer-reci procating mechanism between the strokes, means for locking the embroiderer in its raised position and means for allowing it to descend comprising levers and catches controlled by the jacquard mechanism and cams driven from the loom-shaft and adapted to operate said levers, means for looking the picker-sticks having a nose when the embroiderer passes into the warp comprising a pawl controlled by the jacquard mechanism and adapted to engage a nose on said pickersticks, means for laterally displacing the embroiderer comprising a bell-crank lever operated by a cam driven by the loom-shaft, avertical lever actuated by said bell-crank lever and carrying a diagonally-cutaway plate engaging the embroiderer, means controlled by the jacquard mechanism for obtaining such lateral displacement at the desired moment and means for locking the embroiderer in its laterallydisplaced position.

In witness whereof we have signed this specification in the presence of two witnesses.

JEAN-BAPTISTE MONNET. PAUL BEIER. LOUIS MAGrNIN.

Witnesses:

GUILLAUME PIOOHE, JEAN GERMAIN. 

